'Gainward Phantom, Phantom GS, Palit GameRock, GameRock OC RTX 3090, 3080 waterblocks'

[church]

Those cutouts also bothered me a bit, but decided to ignore for piece of mind. I guess, that originally they were there for looks (as not much weight reduced and extra work for CNC to cut them), but without taking into account shape of thermal pads, whose sizes/shapes were selected/cut at some stage later on, maybe by other person, and pads being visible there actually slightly makes looks worse. Not killing issue though. Block looks acceptable, temps are good, liquid cooling made gpu so much quieter, i'm satisfied.
P.S. @Thomas_S may i reask for connector pinout/voltages for rgb lightning used in this block or advices if/how eisblock aurora rgb can be used with aquaero? (also seems information imho worth adding to Datasheet pdf).

 

[Charun]

Hi @polym0rph, thanks for the pictures. The pads are correctly positioned according to the manual. I'm being honest here! Unfortunately, I can't tell you anything about the technical significance of the recesses. The creative mind that designed the cooler and the manual is currently out of the office. Unfortunately, I can't give you the technical reason for the time being, but I'll give it to you when I have it. I hope that's all right! How does the cooler run? Are the values OK?

Problem is, that there's no VRM temp reporting, so we can't see how hot they get. GPU, memory, or hot spot temps don't really give any clue to the parts under the cutouts.

 

[StuPot]

Problem is, that there's no VRM temp reporting, so we can't see how hot they get. GPU, memory, or hot spot temps don't really give any clue to the parts under the cutouts.

This bothered me when I assembled mine. The Palit stock cooler and all other blocks by other manufacturers for non Palit 3090's all have 100% contact on the VRM's.

 

[polym0rph]

@Thomas_S
Thank you! Please ask for these recesses how the opportunity will be.
I can't say about performance yet. I have not yet fully assembled the cooling circuit. + decided to make a homemade backplate cooling)

Problem is, that there's no VRM temp reporting, so we can't see how hot they get. GPU, memory, or hot spot temps don't really give any clue to the parts under the cutouts.

Some of the elements of some phases are cooled, and some of the elements of other phases are not. It is difficult to predict the consequences of such a decision.

 

[Thomas_S]

Those cutouts also bothered me a bit, but decided to ignore for piece of mind. I guess, that originally they were there for looks (as not much weight reduced and extra work for CNC to cut them), but without taking into account shape of thermal pads, whose sizes/shapes were selected/cut at some stage later on, maybe by other person, and pads being visible there actually slightly makes looks worse. Not killing issue though. Block looks acceptable, temps are good, liquid cooling made gpu so much quieter, i'm satisfied.
P.S. @Thomas_S may i reask for connector pinout/voltages for rgb lightning used in this block or advices if/how eisblock aurora rgb can be used with aquaero? (also seems information imho worth adding to Datasheet pdf).

With our aRgbs we use 3-pin JST + 3-pin 5V, is that enough info for you?

 

[church]

With our aRgbs we use 3-pin JST + 3-pin 5V, is that enough info for you?

Hmm, AE6's RGB LED connector seems of/for less voltage (p1-red-2.1V,p2-green-3.2V,p3-ground,p4-blue-3.2V), hence probably reason for no result when connecting to it. By chance you don't know also which wire/pin is for ground and such in AC's aRgbs 3pin connector?

 

[Thomas_S]

Hmm, AE6's RGB LED connector seems of/for less voltage (p1-red-2.1V,p2-green-3.2V,p3-ground,p4-blue-3.2V), hence probably reason for no result when connecting to it. By chance you don't know also which wire/pin is for ground and such in AC's aRgbs 3pin connector?

no, I'm sorry. Without loosening the casing, I can't say anything about it now. However, if you need more information, it would be advisable to open a separate post on the subject ;-)

 

[Vanzin]

@church

the wire is 5V-Data-Ground for the standard 5V aRGB JST Header. Most motherboards are using a custm Header which looks like a RGB Header but one one Pin is missing 5V-Data-empty-Ground. If your motherboard doesn´t support 5V aRGB LEds you will need an external controller like following one.

Alphacool Aurora Eiscontrol Addressable RGB Controller - Black

Das nächste Zeitalter ist eingeläutet und es heißt ARGB! Für alle, die ihr Modding auf die nächste Stage bringen wollen. Der Alphacool Aurora Eiscontrol ARGB Controller. Auf dich abgestimmt Mach dein System einzigartig. Mit dem...

www.alphacool.com

Alphacool Eis-Matrix II Aurora Digital RGB Controller - Black

Der Alphacool Eis-Matrix 2 Digital RGB Controller bietet umfangreiche Steuermöglichkeiten für adressierbare Digital RGB Lüfter. Mit ihm lassen sich die Drehzahlen der Lüfter stufenlos regeln und er bietet alle Möglichkeiten die perfekte...

www.alphacool.com

 

[church]

Thanks for nfo, @Thomas_S & @Vanzin . My motherboard is old and has no rgb control connectors, hence i inquired what are possible options and if i can reuse existing aquaero which had some 'rgb led' named connector among others. But as i knew pinout & voltages only for AE6 side from it's manual, prior Thomas_S & you telling specs on one used in AC's gpu block, i couldn't make it out if they can be mated together by eg. something simple as making custom wiring harness. Now from available data it seems that AE's side is for controlling aquacomputer's own rgb px strips of lesser voltages & there is no way but buying AC's eiscontrol or eismatrix controllers, or aquacomputer's "farbwerk" (seem to provide those custom 4pin(with one missing) connectors new motherboards have) rgb controllers, if i want to extend aquaero/aquasuite's functionality.
P.S. imho worth adding that pinout & voltage data to eg. datasheet pdf for gpu block in rare case someone else but me needs that info. After all, the more data is in existing manuals, the less frequent and repeated inquiries about trivial questions to you guys. To my defense i did try first rtfm+google prior asking here .

 

[Vanzin]

@church
You are welcome and one thing, there are no stupid questions only stupid answers xD.
It is my Job to help you or other customers when they have questions or ´don´t know how to do something.
Regading the pinout of the LEDs I will forward it to the responsible department or maybe @Eddy or @Thomas_S have already read it and are thinking about it already, so maybe it will be added to the datasheets.

 

[vitas-1806]

Hello forum, please tell me how to properly connect the hoses to the card, I can't figure out which holes to close. The arrows indicate the movement of the stream, right?

In the photo below, I have a stream of water coming from the lower radiator.

 

[church]

@vitas-1806 : other way around. Think of arrows as stream direction in or out of block. So closer to I/O bracket has arrow down, to center of block, water "IN", closer to gpu power wire connectors has arrow up, out of block, water "OUT". No matter if water goes from top or below of block (just close from other side with stop-fitting in set), but matters if right or left inlet. Block will work both ways (so if you don't want to drain loop and reconnect fittings and you are OK with temps, you can wait for next planned loop maintenance), but will cool a bit better with water inlet/outlet connected right way. As side bonus due straighter short tubing from below, after inlet-outlet switch, you'll be able to use normal basic straight fitting instead of elbow-one.

 

[vitas-1806]

@vitas-1806 : other way around. Think of arrows as stream direction in or out of block. So closer to I/O bracket has arrow down, to center of block, water "IN", closer to gpu power wire connectors has arrow up, out of block, water "OUT". No matter if water goes from top or below of block (just close from other side with stop-fitting in set), but matters if right or left inlet. Block will work both ways (so if you don't want to drain loop and reconnect fittings and you are OK with temps, you can wait for next planned loop maintenance), but will cool a bit better with water inlet/outlet connected right way. As side bonus due straighter short tubing from below, after inlet-outlet switch, you'll be able to use normal basic straight fitting instead of elbow-one.

I understand you, thank you very much for the information. I didn’t have time to pour liquid into the circuit yet, I only tested for air leakage. Have to redo, but better now than later.

 

[Thomas_S]

Hi @church, thanks for your comment. But I have to make a short adjustment, @vitas-1806 please make sure to use the In/Out connectors on the GPU cooler correctly. The coolers (water flow) are designed exactly for the application. A change in the assignment can already result in a considerable loss of performance!

 

[church]

@Thomas_S i wrote from my own experience . I had mistaken inlet with outlet at first quick loop assemble too .. but it worked. Yes, temps are better with right configuration, but even with wrong one card was cooled much better then on stock air, hence i used just fine wrong config for a month for until i drained loop to changed other things in it (adding extra inline thermal probes ordered/arrived separately).

 

[Thomas_S]

@Thomas_S i wrote from my own experience . I had mistaken inlet with outlet at first quick loop assemble too .. but it worked......

all is well! ;-) but we still have to react to it... you know that for sure, with so much content here in the post - that quickly turns A into B and in the end C & then standard with the surprise that it doesn't run smoothly! .... Therefore once briefly the hint, as it should be ;-) still thank you for your great support here in the forum!

 

[M1xka]

Hi @polym0rph, thanks for the pictures. The pads are correctly positioned according to the manual. I'm being honest here! Unfortunately, I can't tell you anything about the technical significance of the recesses. The creative mind that designed the cooler and the manual is currently out of the office. Unfortunately, I can't give you the technical reason for the time being, but I'll give it to you when I have it. I hope that's all right! How does the cooler run? Are the values OK?

Hi Thomas,

Any update about that hole/window/recess? Or does vacation still continue?

I'm holding my order because of this.

 

[church]

I'm holding my order because of this.

Not sure it's right choice. Unless it's drastic flaw, i doubt for another version of block to be redesigned/made (doing redesign and another batch will be costly to AC, +more months waiting due logistic issues these days), even more so for these niche cards/blocks. That hole in block doesn't hurt temps for those that already have block, and impact to looks .. subjective thing. For me it hadn't kept from getting block, especially because only other option is to stay on (noisy) stock air.

 

[Hakanese]

Mine is on the way from Germany today.
My temps are climbing and the fans are too loud.

 

[M1xka]

Not sure it's right choice. Unless it's drastic flaw, i doubt for another version of block to be redesigned/made (doing redesign and another batch will be costly to AC, +more months waiting due logistic issues these days), even more so for these niche cards/blocks. That hole in block doesn't hurt temps for those that already have block, and impact to looks .. subjective thing. For me it hadn't kept from getting block, especially because only other option is to stay on (noisy) stock air.

Some sort of design flaw it is. How drastic, that I do not know. That huge air gap does not transfer heat at all. These are components that are designed to be cooled via thermal pads, but now there is no contact to pads. Those components do no have separate temp sensors, so there is no real knowledge of how warm they operating. Looks like not enough to crash the system, but enough to reduce card lifespan? I don't know the AC supply chain, but hiding problems can be very costly too. I do not care about looks.