Waterblock for RTX 2070 super Gigabyte gaming OC 3X

ezveedub

New member
Allright, the water block (#12984 - Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Plexi GPX-N RTX 2070 Super Windforce) arrived and I did some testing and wanted to share the prelimanary results because something might be a bit odd and I don't know if this is normal or I'm to stupid to correctly mount the block.

Before we get started, I just wanted to point out that all the modification were done at my own risk. At this point I don't have any warranty anymore and if you follow these steps the same goes for you. Be careful and think about what you are doing. With that said, let's continue.

I disassembled my Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC 3X (GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GD) to mount the water block, and as discussed in this thread, the RGB header was in the way. I tried two ways of removing the RGB header:
1. I took some side cutters and just snipped the header off. Quick, easy and the block can be mounted.
2. After that I completly desoldered it, the block doesn't fit better, but the card looks nicer
After both modifications I tested the card and it was still working as expected.

Now the Block fits right... hmm not quite

There is a rather large gap between the block and GPU chip as well as the other chips as you can see in the following image.

View attachment 1618

The reason for the gap are the nuts of the water block. Take a look at the following images where I color coded the standoffs from the block and the corresponding holes of the graphics card:

View attachment 1619
View attachment 1621

The green markings are used to connect the genuine cooler.
The orange markings are used to connect the genuine backplate.

I noticed the orange standoffs are a bit higher than the green ones. The image shows a metal ruler lying on top of the orange standoffs showing a gap between the ruler and the green standoffs. This gap is about the same size as the gap between the block and the GPU chip.

View attachment 1622
View attachment 1623
As you can see, the orange standoffs are flush with the PCB but the green ones slightly hover above it, again about the same distance as the gap between block and GPU chip.

Now basically my main question is:
Is this by design, so when I screw it tight the chip is pulled towards the block to make proper contact, which also means the card will be bend?
If not, I could probably just remove the orange standoffs and only use the green ones to connect the block. The original cooler was only connected with the green ones as well.

But hey since this is my first assembly of a GPU water block, I guess better ask first

I have the 2080 Super Windforce and with the concern you posted, you can correct it by removing the stand offs on the plexi top. But the best way is simple. Remove the stock 3 screws for the Gigabyte backplate, remove the backplate and use slightly longer screws that came with the GPU block and run them through the standoffs on the backplate until they stick out behind the stand off. The backplate standoff nuts are slightly closed on the backside, so running a screw through opens it up so you can start a screw from that side instead. Then put the backplate back on and then assemble the card with the block and use the same slightly longer screws or suitable length ones and screw them in from the backplate side, through the PCB and into the standoffs on the plexi top. I assemble the card normally and then install the 3 screws last when pressing the backplate, PCB and block together to close any gaps and then screw in the bolts to hold it together. Keep in mind, you'll be running into two sets of threads, the ones in the backplate and the ones in the plexi top, so you have to close any gaps before the screw runs from the backplate into the standoff in the plexi and you're only snugging the screw until it stops, as the threading in the backplate when the screw gets flush is what stops the screw from turning further. That's how I assembled mine in this post. You can see the 3 black screws on the backplate side in the pics.


Also make sure your thermal pads are making good contact as well, as I changed the thickness on mine to fit better.
 
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thefipster

New member
Thanks for sharing your post, yeah that would have been also an option.
I actually installed it yesterday without noticing your post, so I went down a different approach. I sanded down the spacers that I highlighted in orange until everything made proper contact. Probably somewhere between .5 and 1 mm. Now the gpu is flush with the cooler and all the thermal pads are firmly pressed down.
Temperatures seem fine, so I guess it worked.
 

TheScaryBoy

New member
Hello! So if I read everything correctly any GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GC water block should fit the GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GD with the rgb header removed?
 

Vanzin

Support
Staff member
HI @TheScaryBoy
I am sorry but Gigabyte has changed the PCB Layout of this GPU multiple times. Which revision do you have?
 
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Tanvirul

New member
Hi There, I have the exact same card (GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GD - Rev 1.0) I was wondering, this RGB header unit is only for the RGB function on the stock cooler. What's stopping me from carefully snapping the header off the board? I would be happy to not use the stock cooler again and would most probably upgrade to a different card soon. Just curious whether this could completely stop the card from functioning.

Any help would be appreciated on this!

Thanks
Tan
 

Vanzin

Support
Staff member
Hi Tanvirul,

or the GV-N207SGAMINGOC WHITE-8GD* we don´t have an compatible water block in our assortment.
 

Mad Dog

New member
Hey, I've got the same gpu (GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GD) and all of the waterblocks don't seem to be selling any more, is there another waterblock that is compatible with my card? (I can also desolder the rgb pin if necessary)
 

Marc-eting

Marc the Marc-eting Guy
Staff member
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