Issue with 1-Slot Design water block (10292) & Gigabyte Aorus Master Ice 5090

[raybould]

I've just emailed this to info@alphacool but if anyone can help in the meantime that would be great.

I ran into I think a “dead end” issue during installation. In order to get the pcb board fully seated into the block, I had to remove the 4 hex posts / risers (not sure what else to call them) from the block that surround where the die sits. But now that they are out, I can no longer attach the original mounting spring to secure the board to the block. My printed manual says v1.000 // 04.2025. An updated version of the manual online, dated 11.2025 actually has slightly different instructions around this and references 4x 8mm m2 screws that I do not have in my boxes. However, even having these screws I do not think it will work, as there are still some problems:

1. It would require me to remove the screws that are already in the mounting bracket. They have a locking mechanism in the back and I would have to damage it to remove them.
2. More importantly, the thread thickness that would be required to screw into the holes left by removing the hex posts will simply not fit through the mounting bracket or the PCB board itself.

So clearly, I need to leave these 4 hex posts in so that I can get down to the correct thread thickness, however, that does not allow the board to make contact with the block in the right spots. No thermal paste is transferred from the die to the block when the hex posts are in, and, inserting all of the other screws around the backplate was causing the board to bend. Clearly there is a high spot created by these 4 posts.

Am I at a dead end? Anyone know a solution?

Alphacool ES 1-Slot Design water block (10292)
Gigabyte Aorus Master Ice RTX 5090 GPU

 

[Eddy]

I’m not entirely sure if I’m understanding your description correctly. No spacer bolts (the hex-shaped standoffs) need to be removed from the block at all. Only the plastic caps on the standoffs need to be taken off. They are black or blue and made of plastic. It also wouldn’t make any sense for us to screw standoffs into the block that the customer would then have to remove.

If the screws of the original mounting frame on the back side have a locking mechanism, then that seal does have to be broken—this is correct. However, first you will need the M2x8 screws. Without those, the block cannot be mounted correctly. But this is something you will need to clarify directly with support.

 

[raybould]

I’m not entirely sure if I’m understanding your description correctly. No spacer bolts (the hex-shaped standoffs) need to be removed from the block at all. Only the plastic caps on the standoffs need to be taken off. They are black or blue and made of plastic. It also wouldn’t make any sense for us to screw standoffs into the block that the customer would then have to remove.

If the screws of the original mounting frame on the back side have a locking mechanism, then that seal does have to be broken—this is correct. However, first you will need the M2x8 screws. Without those, the block cannot be mounted correctly. But this is something you will need to clarify directly with support.

Thank you for the reply, but this is incorrect.

The board will not fit into the block with the hex shaped standoffs in there. They create a high point such that the block does not make contact with die, the thermal pads, or the other 8 standoffs used to secure the rest of the board + backplate.

 

[Eddy]

You also sent this to us by email, right? There was an image with the standoffs included as well. Please disregard my statement above — I completely misunderstood you.

If you have already sent us an email with a picture, please wait for our reply there. If not, please send it again by email.

There is a solution, but you will need new standoffs, which we will then send to you.