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Just for anyone looking, the best way i found is to heat the end of it before twisting it tight, thats the easiest way to do it. I bought multiple sets of tubing and fittings, its all the same. I also have a resin jaw pliers that help out holding it tight without damaging it.

Originally got an eiswolf 2 for my 4090 founders because the original cooler had a vapor chamber leak and wasnt cooling at higher loads anymore. I found the eiswolf 2 aio open box at modmymods and decided to get it since a original cooler was the same price. I was going to get an Eisbaer to...

how do you get around the plugs getting in the way when mounting it , since it bulges out and isnt flush with the surface

What kind of screw plug would this radiator use? Article no.: 14170 I noticed the Alphacool Eiszapfen screw plug V.2 G1/4 (Article no.: 17468) is the only screw plug available but it says its only for v.2 radiators.

well i made sure its the right tubing and its the same tubing that came with the eiswolf 2 as well. I also bought a set of new tubing and its the same with that as well.

the compression ring barely hits the threads when i push it up but twisting it closer gets harder and harder without something like pliers and a wrench . I tried to get it closer until it gets super hard to turn and almost impossible without tools. Is there an easier way?

Looks like you are right, but it looks like the culprit was the EK leak tester itself, I tested it on a ball valve and closed it off with a plug as well and it is leaking like the cpu block. , it leaked the same amount of air as the cpu block. The larger loop test with tubs and a filter took...

I hope not because it’s the tube the fitting came with , It came with the quick connects should be the tpv 12.7/7.6mm tubing. I bought extra tubing as well, and its the same size.

Sure here you go

Its a plug from XSPC but if it doesnt seal because of that, it would explain as well. I am going to retest since I am confused by .1 bar and .05 bar ticks.

Hello, I am fairly new to watercooling and I had a question, I recently got the Core 1 block and i wanted to leak test each component just to make sure. When i tested the CPU block, the bar is slowly going down over a few minutes when testing the block alone. But when I test it with something...

Yes i meant hte compression ring, its almost impossible without tools to get the compression ring all the way down. It looks like radiators with them have it all the way down but i assume its because its a factory tight thing?

I am having trouble tightening the metal fittings, is there any times to doing it without getting pliers and stripping the paint trying to twist it tight? Does it have to be flush?