crum3le
Member
You can throw a lot of math at the issue of computer component temperature and it will tell you what the temperature should be or you can look at a gauge...
Here's some thoughts about temperature sensor positioning that get you the best information at the lowest cost. This is based on my own system but it might help you pull some ideas from it?
The setup goes from the reservoir (temperature sender in the drain plug; call that sensor "A") to the pump, to the GPU. One of the spare ports on the output side also has a temperature sender: call that "B". Then to the CPU. From the CPU, no spare port so via a flow indicator, also with a temperature sender ("C") to the first radiator; [a 360mm]. then to another 360 radiator and back to the reservoir.
All the temperature probes are G1/4 and have short extension fittings to prevent restriction of the liquid flow.
Sensor B temperature minus Sensor A gives you the heat increase from GPU.
Sensor C temperature minus Sensor B gives you the heat increase from CPU
Another probe ('D') between the radiators would allow you to know the temperature drop from Radiator 1. Sensor D temperature minus Sensor C gives you the heat lost from radiator 1.
As temperature sensor A gives the 'coolest' temperature of the loop back at the resovoir, after both radiators, so;
Sensor 'A' temperature minus sensor 'D' gives the heat lost in the second radiator.
If you are using 2x GPU then another temperature sensor between the output of GPU1 and the input of GPU2 would tell you the temperature increase of the loop of each GPU.
Add an ambient air temperature sensor and you can calculate the efficiency of the loop with reference to ambient temperature.
My preference is to go larger than the standard 240mm radiator per heat generator, (GPU / CPU etc.). I prefer to run bigger radiators at a lower fan speed to get the same cooling with lower noise this strategy also gives a bit of headroom for the days if the room is silly hot. There is also a small increase in the volume of the loop which slows the rise in the overall temperature of the loop. (A little bit anyway).
Most of the water cooling manufacturers make some sort of controller to bring temperatures on screen, some of the newer motherboards also have temperature sensor inputs and there are a range of after market items too. My motherboard is ASUS and that has two on board temperature sensors. My aftermarket fan/A-RGB and temperature controller a further three.
I'm not a huge fan of blinkenlights, most of the LED are off or dim white light most of the time, but if any temperature goes outside of nominal, all the A-RGB go red. All the fans can go full speed at that point too.
While water cooling concerns itself, mainly, with GPU, CPU, and to a lesser extent memory, motherboard, SLI, VRM. The HDD and SSD are also worth giving some thought in the cooling solution. Without water cooling or large quantities of air they will get warmer than with a forced air cooling solution.
I also have another temperature sensor setup on the 2 HDD and 2 x SSD. [The Lian Li Dynamic XL case is a popular choice but suffers from very limited airflow in the rear section where the HDD/SSD are located], if you also use their Distro block, airflow between font and rear and past the HDD/SSD is almost zero.
ASUS provide a fan extension board with this motherboard, controllable by software, that can run 3 fans each with their own temperature sensors. Securing a sensor to each HDD and having an 80mm fan pushing air over the HDD/SSD improves the cooling from almost zero to something that helps keep the HDD/SSD alive but does not impact or effect the water cooling loop.
Stay safe.
Enjoy, like and subscribe etc.....
Here's some thoughts about temperature sensor positioning that get you the best information at the lowest cost. This is based on my own system but it might help you pull some ideas from it?
The setup goes from the reservoir (temperature sender in the drain plug; call that sensor "A") to the pump, to the GPU. One of the spare ports on the output side also has a temperature sender: call that "B". Then to the CPU. From the CPU, no spare port so via a flow indicator, also with a temperature sender ("C") to the first radiator; [a 360mm]. then to another 360 radiator and back to the reservoir.
All the temperature probes are G1/4 and have short extension fittings to prevent restriction of the liquid flow.
Sensor B temperature minus Sensor A gives you the heat increase from GPU.
Sensor C temperature minus Sensor B gives you the heat increase from CPU
Another probe ('D') between the radiators would allow you to know the temperature drop from Radiator 1. Sensor D temperature minus Sensor C gives you the heat lost from radiator 1.
As temperature sensor A gives the 'coolest' temperature of the loop back at the resovoir, after both radiators, so;
Sensor 'A' temperature minus sensor 'D' gives the heat lost in the second radiator.
If you are using 2x GPU then another temperature sensor between the output of GPU1 and the input of GPU2 would tell you the temperature increase of the loop of each GPU.
Add an ambient air temperature sensor and you can calculate the efficiency of the loop with reference to ambient temperature.
My preference is to go larger than the standard 240mm radiator per heat generator, (GPU / CPU etc.). I prefer to run bigger radiators at a lower fan speed to get the same cooling with lower noise this strategy also gives a bit of headroom for the days if the room is silly hot. There is also a small increase in the volume of the loop which slows the rise in the overall temperature of the loop. (A little bit anyway).
Most of the water cooling manufacturers make some sort of controller to bring temperatures on screen, some of the newer motherboards also have temperature sensor inputs and there are a range of after market items too. My motherboard is ASUS and that has two on board temperature sensors. My aftermarket fan/A-RGB and temperature controller a further three.
I'm not a huge fan of blinkenlights, most of the LED are off or dim white light most of the time, but if any temperature goes outside of nominal, all the A-RGB go red. All the fans can go full speed at that point too.
While water cooling concerns itself, mainly, with GPU, CPU, and to a lesser extent memory, motherboard, SLI, VRM. The HDD and SSD are also worth giving some thought in the cooling solution. Without water cooling or large quantities of air they will get warmer than with a forced air cooling solution.
I also have another temperature sensor setup on the 2 HDD and 2 x SSD. [The Lian Li Dynamic XL case is a popular choice but suffers from very limited airflow in the rear section where the HDD/SSD are located], if you also use their Distro block, airflow between font and rear and past the HDD/SSD is almost zero.
ASUS provide a fan extension board with this motherboard, controllable by software, that can run 3 fans each with their own temperature sensors. Securing a sensor to each HDD and having an 80mm fan pushing air over the HDD/SSD improves the cooling from almost zero to something that helps keep the HDD/SSD alive but does not impact or effect the water cooling loop.
Stay safe.
Enjoy, like and subscribe etc.....
