'Gainward Phantom, Phantom GS, Palit GameRock, GameRock OC RTX 3090, 3080 waterblocks'

church

Active member
IceFireW: Not so sure on "for sure" bit. Imho there IS chance to not have it burnt because of that, stock cooler's fans don't kick in immediately either (though stock cooler also has a bit higher thermal capacity, and even in passive mode can dissipate a bit more heat then single metal plate which gpu block is. Maybe built in throttling also may increase chances to not burn. But i'll repeat myself, that 3090 is too expensive, and i wouldn't want to risk even slightest. Then again, i'd certainly wouldn't want to have it start booting windows, for sure -> "it didn't even boot". The longer it takes, the higher risks. And windows in some cases also may use 3D even for generic user interface, which may add load/clock spike/heat on card.
Anyway, i'd try it in other pcie slot, on other motherboard, recheck if all both monitor & gpu power cables properly connected, and would try resetting motherboard bios to defaults. And .. with cooling this time!
 
Last edited:

Lareng

New member
This setup worked for me on a Phantom 3090 GS
On the GPU side I used 1mm on all components except on the LR22 chips, here I used 2mm. I have checked if the 1mm on the vram is compressed or not and I believe it’s a tiny pressure on it. See picture and evaluate if it’s pushed down or not. All screws are tightened all the way.
On the back side I used the pads as in the instructions, 2mm on vram and back of the gpu + 3mm long pads on each side. Backplate screws also tightened all the way, not hard.. just so I could feel it’s stopping.
GPU stress test (kombustor) with over clocked +80mhz on gpu and +200mhz on memory with 110% power it got 61 degree on GPU and MJT was about 75-80 (if I remember correct.) On Idle the gpu drops to 28 degree, I feel the GPU is definitely getting good cooling from the WB. MJT could be better, but I guess it’s the backside that suffer proper cooling. The backplate gets really hot, can’t hold my fingers on it so I have mounted some china water blocks to the backside but with crap thermal tape. Could probably be attacked with some thermal paste glue or something, but I’m not sure what would be best.
 

Attachments

  • 257877B1-5DBB-4C74-A1BE-49E00DFCD71F.jpeg
    257877B1-5DBB-4C74-A1BE-49E00DFCD71F.jpeg
    738.3 KB · Views: 71
  • EC42D587-4797-473F-85EA-D09DEF12CF18.jpeg
    EC42D587-4797-473F-85EA-D09DEF12CF18.jpeg
    598.2 KB · Views: 73
  • C7F65953-1783-49D6-95D0-6AC39C777C56.jpeg
    C7F65953-1783-49D6-95D0-6AC39C777C56.jpeg
    322.3 KB · Views: 83
  • 62079FC1-0017-4160-BDC1-25B483400B1F.jpeg
    62079FC1-0017-4160-BDC1-25B483400B1F.jpeg
    456.2 KB · Views: 82
  • B7822277-8731-4118-B5C0-5B5E9436B3D2.jpeg
    B7822277-8731-4118-B5C0-5B5E9436B3D2.jpeg
    167.5 KB · Views: 83

church

Active member
I have a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL and Gamerock 3080. Will this waterblock fit without vertical kit?
From block's page at shop: LxWxH 125x216x25mm
Just check with ruler, if you have space for 216mm long and 125mm high card. These cards with this waterblock get like .. 30% shorter then with original big air cooler.
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 6987

Guest
I have a Lian Li O11D XL and a waterblock with L x W x H: 146 x 269,5 x 25 mm mounted in the PCIE 16x slot (no vertical bracket). No problem !
 

Layfon

New member
This setup worked for me on a Phantom 3090 GS
On the GPU side I used 1mm on all components except on the LR22 chips, here I used 2mm. I have checked if the 1mm on the vram is compressed or not and I believe it’s a tiny pressure on it. See picture and evaluate if it’s pushed down or not. All screws are tightened all the way.
On the back side I used the pads as in the instructions, 2mm on vram and back of the gpu + 3mm long pads on each side. Backplate screws also tightened all the way, not hard.. just so I could feel it’s stopping.
GPU stress test (kombustor) with over clocked +80mhz on gpu and +200mhz on memory with 110% power it got 61 degree on GPU and MJT was about 75-80 (if I remember correct.) On Idle the gpu drops to 28 degree, I feel the GPU is definitely getting good cooling from the WB. MJT could be better, but I guess it’s the backside that suffer proper cooling. The backplate gets really hot, can’t hold my fingers on it so I have mounted some china water blocks to the backside but with crap thermal tape. Could probably be attacked with some thermal paste glue or something, but I’m not sure what would be best.

I have the Gainward Phantom 3090 card also but I can't find a compatible waterblock for it.

Which one are you using?
 

Ossio

New member
I have the Gainward Phantom 3090 card also but I can't find a compatible waterblock for it.

Which one are you using?
this is the water black that i and many others users here are using for the Gainward card, at least with 3090 GS / or non you should be fine. Keep in mind all the things ppl here have noticed and the adjustments you need to do the LR22 chips need 2 mm pad instead of 1mm and the screws and nuts have to be installed upside down for the GPU bracket
 

church

Active member
Without stock cooler gamerock (and OC) should be same as phantom (and GS). Both 3080 & 3090 versions. Same PCB. Same Waterblock. Not seeing any reason for one to be higher then other except one card not being fully inserted in pcie slot :D
 
D

Deleted member 6987

Guest
Good one!

Your card seems to be different than mine as Gamerock 3080 is higher than your GPU so i think i can only use the waterblock when using a vertical kit.

as already mentionned, the graphic card is a Aorus 3080 Master and my waterblock is 14.6 cm high but it fits, no clearance issue as you can see.
If you waterblock is 12.5 cm, you will have no problem neither.
 

church

Active member
But a push-pull configuration on a 30mm radiator is just useless :)
Not necessarily so, as often thin radiators also are dense-finned ones, so need more pressure to get through high-fpi fins, and apart from obvious high rpms (and more noise) push-pull also can increase noticeably pressure/airflow through resistant dense-finned rad. And with most builds with rads mounted inside case usually most limiting factor is ability to mount rads of specific size/section count, usually there is less problem with space for extra fans, so even while gain might be less, there still is some, and may help for one wishing to get most possible from limited rad area
 
Last edited:

Goobak

New member
Oh, the block for Gamerock 3090 is out!
Just a question: I am absolutely in no mood for searching for all the tubes, fittings, pumps etc. Is there a list available for a whole assembly which I just buy all together in one go?
 

church

Active member
This block is marketed as part for custom loops. As in everybody has different needs/possibilities and according to those specs rest of bits like rads/fans/pumps/possible monitoring&control extras/maybe even something from looks area, in loop. Simplest example - if rad internal mount is considered, everybody has different pc cases in which different size rads can or cannot be mounted.
If you want something specific - suggest to ask for advises separately, and do specify as much details as possible. For example - what case you have, what rads it's possible to mount in it, if you want to cool also CPU with LC, and so on..
 
Top