Hi
I am trying to get an Eisbear 280 Extreme running in a case that is too small. I do need the cooling and the low noise, both.
<update: This description shows stuff I tried that was embarrassingly off track, then what worked.>
The method so far is to remove the Eisbear case and top mount it in an a Phanteks Enthoo Primo, a big case with lots of elbow room that still has five 5.25 bays.
The problem was the Eisbear case size and removing the Eisbear case did give it a practical size, when the pump/reservoir and radiator are pushed together. I used thin metal strips from old PCI slot cover plates to join the base of the pump with the base of the radiator, leaving the the top to be held in the case mounting slots when it is ready to fit. I needed to drill extra holes in the rear of the case top fan mounting plate for the top pump mounting screws and the pump speed adjust and the fill port. The radiator screws line up with the case fan slots, though the fan tops and the pump top are at different heights so I plan to even things out with tap washers and longer 3mm screws.
Get that organised, plus a leak tester and coolant plus filler bottle, I was ready to test outside of the case. No go, there is a leak that seemed to come from the push fit coupling between the radiator and the pump/reservoir.
I tried adding 11mm ring washers to the two plugs on the radiator, but still no go.
The problem could be that I checked to see if the radiator connector plugs were G1/4 screw fit or built into the radiator, unscrew-able with pliers? They are built in, but the test did scar a connector plug. Fine emery paper, which did smooth the connector surface, and a layer of Humbrol enamel model paint. Can I add layers of enamel paint until the connection gives an air tight seal? <urghh>
So:
1. Is trying to improve the seal by way of thin layers of enamel paint really sense, or is it as suspect as it seems to me? <avoid the paint>
2. Might the leak have a different cause? <yes>
3. A different solution is to add right angle couplers and hose to the pump/reservoir and the radiator and mount the pump/reservoir at the bottom of the case. I would only do that as a last resort, but are there any G1/4 connections that will solidly join to these items? <yes, but not sense as the reservoir is not a simple fit except to the radiator>
UPDATE after the cooler has been running a month:
The problem was a leak where the two halves of the reservoir join together, but only directly between the radiator connectors. The radiator connections themselves do not leak. When the reservoir is in the case, as it is built for, the top and bottom plates preclude this leak.
I ended up having to epoxy glue a large patch over the top half of the reservoir, which stopped the movement that creates the leak when the system is under pressure. If I had tried plugging the radiator in while the glue set there is a big chance that the patch would not have been needed.
I am trying to get an Eisbear 280 Extreme running in a case that is too small. I do need the cooling and the low noise, both.
<update: This description shows stuff I tried that was embarrassingly off track, then what worked.>
The method so far is to remove the Eisbear case and top mount it in an a Phanteks Enthoo Primo, a big case with lots of elbow room that still has five 5.25 bays.
The problem was the Eisbear case size and removing the Eisbear case did give it a practical size, when the pump/reservoir and radiator are pushed together. I used thin metal strips from old PCI slot cover plates to join the base of the pump with the base of the radiator, leaving the the top to be held in the case mounting slots when it is ready to fit. I needed to drill extra holes in the rear of the case top fan mounting plate for the top pump mounting screws and the pump speed adjust and the fill port. The radiator screws line up with the case fan slots, though the fan tops and the pump top are at different heights so I plan to even things out with tap washers and longer 3mm screws.
Get that organised, plus a leak tester and coolant plus filler bottle, I was ready to test outside of the case. No go, there is a leak that seemed to come from the push fit coupling between the radiator and the pump/reservoir.
I tried adding 11mm ring washers to the two plugs on the radiator, but still no go.
The problem could be that I checked to see if the radiator connector plugs were G1/4 screw fit or built into the radiator, unscrew-able with pliers? They are built in, but the test did scar a connector plug. Fine emery paper, which did smooth the connector surface, and a layer of Humbrol enamel model paint. Can I add layers of enamel paint until the connection gives an air tight seal? <urghh>
So:
1. Is trying to improve the seal by way of thin layers of enamel paint really sense, or is it as suspect as it seems to me? <avoid the paint>
2. Might the leak have a different cause? <yes>
3. A different solution is to add right angle couplers and hose to the pump/reservoir and the radiator and mount the pump/reservoir at the bottom of the case. I would only do that as a last resort, but are there any G1/4 connections that will solidly join to these items? <yes, but not sense as the reservoir is not a simple fit except to the radiator>
UPDATE after the cooler has been running a month:
The problem was a leak where the two halves of the reservoir join together, but only directly between the radiator connectors. The radiator connections themselves do not leak. When the reservoir is in the case, as it is built for, the top and bottom plates preclude this leak.
I ended up having to epoxy glue a large patch over the top half of the reservoir, which stopped the movement that creates the leak when the system is under pressure. If I had tried plugging the radiator in while the glue set there is a big chance that the patch would not have been needed.
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