The illustrations show 3 mm on the back of 3080. As 2mm is not thick enough with no memory modules at back. Check the instructions again. 3080 uses the bag with 3mm pads.
'Gainward Phantom, Phantom GS, Palit GameRock, GameRock OC RTX 3090, 3080 waterblocks'
- Thread starter grizli9000
- Start date
tobytones
New member
You are absolutely right! I got confused by the color and order of the instructions, like the blue ones are 1mm, then i would assume the yellow were 2mm and the orange were 3 mm. Mind tricks I say! Well I will fix it next time i clean the loop I guess, since the temps are good as it is.
RosaPanteren
Member
Hmmm, I think you got some installation issues buddy....
1) VRM pads, outer most pads marked with 2mm. It doesn't seem like there is any connection to these pads. I found that I needed to use 2mm pads because of a 1mm gap. Check if you got any pads left over or some extra 2mm laying around. Or you will need to ask AC about some new pading.
2) Little to no impressions on memory pads, 4 inner most pads. I think this might be because you didn't tighten up the four center screws (marked blue x) enough.
When you say "57 degrees in 5" does that refere to die temp or? Whats your water temp or ambiant/room temp?
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BTW, what are possibilities on using rgb of this block? Is mentioned in manual Aurora Eiscontrol controller only way? Can rgb used connected to card itself? Off motherboard? From Aquaero6? I'm not very big fan on rgb in general, especially if overdone, but currently completely blacked out case looks a bit too plain.
There's a 3-pin ARGB adapter (pic #8 on the manual) included, that i'd assume works with MB header as long as it has the correct connector on it.
vitas-1806
New member
Hello users. I have a Palit Gamerock 3080 OC. Please tell me what thickness of the gasket I need, in what places? I want to use Thermalright gaskets.
Hi @vitas-1806 , the link leads to the manual for the cooler. There you will find everything you need to know about the pads.
Hi guys, i have a question cause i have 0 knowledge about custom water cooling (because i have used only AIOs until now) and because there is no AIO for my Palit RTX 3090 GameRock, i would like to know if anyone can help me, what can i buy to make a custom water cooling just for this graphics card...
Thanks in advance and wish you all a great day
Best regards,
Dan
Thanks in advance and wish you all a great day
Best regards,
Dan
@ReLApS, please open a separate post for your request! It's easier and clearer. Then we can put together a decent loop for you.
I tightened 4 screws to the end, then I just rip off the racks.
2 mm - I put in 1.5 mm and saw that the gaskets were flattened.
I have one memory bank on top and there is no pressure on it.
There is a memory clip at the bottom, but it is not visible in the photo.
I reinstalled the water block only because I felt that there was no pressure on those gaskets that you indicated as 2 mm.
Above your message, there is a photo and there are instructions to put 2 mm spacers, I would have them by 1.5 mm, although the instructions and the kit contain 1 mm spacers. Other gaskets are correct and correct. + you need to tighten 2 screws and nuts in step 2, swapping them, the screws are on the top, and the nuts are on the bottom, relative to the figure in the instructions. Due to the fact that if you do point 2 according to the instructions, the water block will not completely sit down, the height of the nuts will interfere with it.
hi @max-gliwitzki, what exactly is your problem? At best, open a separate post so we can help you better.
Hmm. You haven't cleaned up stock paste/pads with something too chemically aggressive? Screws of GPU bracket and block/backplate are not overtightened with bending/breaking something? You haven't shorted something with static electricity? Properly performed leak test? That VGA BIOS error - some error printed out on screen, or simply card not showing any picture? In later case i'd check if cables from PSU are properly reconnected (as advised, each from separate connector, not with Y splitters, and if cables are individually sleeved, then to not mix up 2 wires from one connector and 6 from another). Obviously that in addition to if monitor cable is also properly reconnected after reinstalling card in case.
Thing is, even if something is not right thermal contact wise, at boot card shouldn't be with high load and thus at least something should show up. Hence i guess something gone wrong during removal of stock cooling/installing block/reconnecting cables.
Thing is, even if something is not right thermal contact wise, at boot card shouldn't be with high load and thus at least something should show up. Hence i guess something gone wrong during removal of stock cooling/installing block/reconnecting cables.
[QUOTE = "max-gliwitzki, post: 14435, member: 8015"]
нет, я использовал изопропиловый спирт, чтобы очистить его, я даже не прошел тест на герметичность, он даже не загрузился. материнская плата отобразила ошибку, не удалось получить дисплей. Попробовали разные кабели и методы отображения. Я думаю, что до того, как я установил блок, это подыгрывало, если только я не сделал что-то очень не так, но я не думаю, что сделал
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
Мне кажется, что вы русскоязычный.
Вы до конца вставили карту в слот пси?
У меня было так, как у вас с 1080 ти, я не полностью ее вставил и этого не заметил, карта не включилась, блок питания ушел в защиту. До свидания 1080ти.
Попробуйте вставить в другой разъем пси, но мне кажется, что уже ничего не поможет.
It seems to me that you are Russian-speaking.
Have you fully inserted the card into the psi slot?
It was like yours with 1080 tee, I did not fully insert it and did not notice it, the card did not turn on, the power supply went into protection. Goodbye 1080.
Try plugging into a different psi connector.
Try switching the BIOS on the video card to another using the switch.
Try to remove the BIOS on the motherboard by removing the battery, but this is an extreme measure, as I think it will not help.
нет, я использовал изопропиловый спирт, чтобы очистить его, я даже не прошел тест на герметичность, он даже не загрузился. материнская плата отобразила ошибку, не удалось получить дисплей. Попробовали разные кабели и методы отображения. Я думаю, что до того, как я установил блок, это подыгрывало, если только я не сделал что-то очень не так, но я не думаю, что сделал
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
Мне кажется, что вы русскоязычный.
Вы до конца вставили карту в слот пси?
У меня было так, как у вас с 1080 ти, я не полностью ее вставил и этого не заметил, карта не включилась, блок питания ушел в защиту. До свидания 1080ти.
Попробуйте вставить в другой разъем пси, но мне кажется, что уже ничего не поможет.
It seems to me that you are Russian-speaking.
Have you fully inserted the card into the psi slot?
It was like yours with 1080 tee, I did not fully insert it and did not notice it, the card did not turn on, the power supply went into protection. Goodbye 1080.
Try plugging into a different psi connector.
Try switching the BIOS on the video card to another using the switch.
Try to remove the BIOS on the motherboard by removing the battery, but this is an extreme measure, as I think it will not help.
Try other pcie slot, try resetting bios to defaults (in case if something wrong with pins of specific slot, or in case if it's because of some bios setting, eg. overclock or alike. Eg. on weird motherboard of mine card didn't show any picture on poweron, if i had disabled (unused) integrated video in bios. If you happen to have another computer, you can try also card in that, to strike out something bad with motherboard possibility. That is, if water tubing is long enough for card to be used in another case nearby.
P.S. imho one shouldn't skip leaktesting (before connecting power to motherboard & gpu obviously. One can jumpstart PSU even w/o mobo connected, to get pump running). At least on/with hardware as expensive as 3090. If nothing else, then via eg. air leak-testers that are sold by several LC vendors (P.P.S. if one uses such tool for whole look, one shouldn't pump >0.3psi)
P.S. imho one shouldn't skip leaktesting (before connecting power to motherboard & gpu obviously. One can jumpstart PSU even w/o mobo connected, to get pump running). At least on/with hardware as expensive as 3090. If nothing else, then via eg. air leak-testers that are sold by several LC vendors (P.P.S. if one uses such tool for whole look, one shouldn't pump >0.3psi)
There was no point in your actions.
max-gliwitzki: with no cooling at all, there is high chance to burn card. Block by itself has not much heat capacity and may run too hot very quickly. And 3090 seems a bit too pricy to risk. BTW, did you use normal paste on gpu chip itself or some liquid metal? In case of later .. no shorting due that by chance?
The video card was definitely inserted all the way, it did not interfere with the latches of the memory slots or the casing that lies on top of the motherboard. You shouldn't have connected it without cooling, you probably burned it for sure.