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Those cutouts also bothered me a bit, but decided to ignore for piece of mind. I guess, that originally they were there for looks (as not much weight reduced and extra work for CNC to cut them), but without taking into account shape of thermal pads, whose sizes/shapes were selected/cut at some...

BTW, can anyone advise if/how built in rgb led strip in block can be powered on if i have aquaero6 & motherboard has no rgb connectors. Maybe someone can tell what pinout/voltage AC's block illumination rgb led strip or maybe had successfully used them with AE5 or 6 in past? Couldn't find nfo on...

@Varatesh: regarding (1.) - double check. I almost thought so too, due them being very small and transparent. They actually were there in one of small plastic bags, but easy to not notice, seemingly not in that bag that on quick glance looked empty.

You can screw in fitting from any side in any configuration. Inlet on one side, outlet on other, or both on one or other side, if that is needed for extra clearance. Just bolt in stop fitting that comes in set from opposite side. Just pay attention which is inlet and which is outlet for optimum...

From quick googling on FD celsius s36 3x120 rad AIO cooler with integrated pump on cpu block i see in it's specs listed "Radiator fittings use standard G 1/4" thread" (but on cpu block - unremovable), that's wonderful (as what's most of aftermarket fittings for custom LC loops use). Pump in such...

This block is marketed as part for custom loops. As in everybody has different needs/possibilities and according to those specs rest of bits like rads/fans/pumps/possible monitoring&control extras/maybe even something from looks area, in loop. Simplest example - if rad internal mount is...

Not necessarily so, as often thin radiators also are dense-finned ones, so need more pressure to get through high-fpi fins, and apart from obvious high rpms (and more noise) push-pull also can increase noticeably pressure/airflow through resistant dense-finned rad. And with most builds with rads...

Without stock cooler gamerock (and OC) should be same as phantom (and GS). Both 3080 & 3090 versions. Same PCB. Same Waterblock. Not seeing any reason for one to be higher then other except one card not being fully inserted in pcie slot :D

From block's page at shop: LxWxH 125x216x25mm Just check with ruler, if you have space for 216mm long and 125mm high card. These cards with this waterblock get like .. 30% shorter then with original big air cooler.

IceFireW: Not so sure on "for sure" bit. Imho there IS chance to not have it burnt because of that, stock cooler's fans don't kick in immediately either (though stock cooler also has a bit higher thermal capacity, and even in passive mode can dissipate a bit more heat then single metal plate...

max-gliwitzki: with no cooling at all, there is high chance to burn card. Block by itself has not much heat capacity and may run too hot very quickly. And 3090 seems a bit too pricy to risk. BTW, did you use normal paste on gpu chip itself or some liquid metal? In case of later .. no shorting...

Try other pcie slot, try resetting bios to defaults (in case if something wrong with pins of specific slot, or in case if it's because of some bios setting, eg. overclock or alike. Eg. on weird motherboard of mine card didn't show any picture on poweron, if i had disabled (unused) integrated...

Hmm. You haven't cleaned up stock paste/pads with something too chemically aggressive? Screws of GPU bracket and block/backplate are not overtightened with bending/breaking something? You haven't shorted something with static electricity? Properly performed leak test? That VGA BIOS error - some...

BTW, what are possibilities on using rgb of this block? Is mentioned in manual Aurora Eiscontrol controller only way? Can rgb used connected to card itself? Off motherboard? From Aquaero6? I'm not very big fan on rgb in general, especially if overdone, but currently completely blacked out case...

It was simpler to ignore colors, just choose which is for yours, 3080 or 3090 pic, and go by "numbers". Eg. in pic - here you need to use pads with numbers X-Y, then see in which plastic bag those pad numbers are..

Initially i also thought so. Double check your set. In one small plastic bag they were there .. just that those washers are comparable to screws size - very small .. and of clear transparent color, thus very easy to not notice within that transparent plastic bag, which on quick glance looked...

@IceFireW , @Krypto - seeing that pic .. why not flip around nut & bolt? Bolt's head certainly looks thinner then nut, and it should help with no extra parts or dremeling off some length of bolt and some thickness off nut.. BTW, is it "too long screw" or too thick nut? When backplate or block is...

Is there anything better for rads from 120mm fans as scythe/nidec servo gentle typhoons? IIRC at ~ 1100rpms they provided tons of static pressure and were relatively silent despite having ball bearings..

@IceFireW nice use of quick disconnect fittings for simple single cooled component replacement (y)

Eddy: just that installation manual lists different pads for 3080 & 3090 cards (probably due absence of few memory chips on former). - I guess it's worth to update (at least online manual version downlaodable from product at shop page link) with which pads to use with 3080Ti variety..