Search results

CKC is usually used :)

Hey @RoyalHealer So you have two options, I think Thomas just clicked the wrong item. You can either use the DDC pump and top that you have chosen and then a standalone reservoir such as This or you can buy these two items togehter instead so you can attach the pump to the reservoir directly...

Ok, I would try one last refit then and if that doesn't help at all, I would suggest emailing us at info@alphacool.com to see if they have any additional information for you. Ideally, the mem temps want to be under 100 degrees and the GPU core should be around 10 - 20 degrees above your...

Furmark is more of a torture test than a benchmark in all honesty. They even have a disclaimer saying it can damage cards. Having said that, I personally use it when trying to show cooling performance. Do you have good airflow for the radiators and sufficient radiator space? Is it a slow...

Hmmmm, it would seem there is something not allowing correct contact, or maybe thermal paste on the GPU needs reapplying. It is very unusual for the GPU die to hit high tempretures with our waterblocks.

Prolongued benchmarks can be brutal to memory, but your tempretures are within spec from AMD, so you won't see any problems. You may want to try re-sitting the waterblock and ensuring that the thermal pads are making contact though as our findings do generally show lower temps, however, I...

I believe you may be referring to the thread length, rather than the thread type? A G1/4" thread is more to do with the width and pitch of the thread, rather than the length. Most fittings are around 5mm in length, however, we use a lot of different fittings based on the requirements. The...

I would have them pushing personally, usually, with ITX builds I have a 240mm rad with fans pushing in, then either a 240 or 120mm rad with the fan on the inside of the case pushing out. Once everything reaches equlibrium, it all works out nicely :)

The metal fittings are a lot harder to use than the nylon ones unfortunately. The metal ones were made for industrial use and have a far tighter tolerance than the Nylon ones. We are looking into this as it seems that it can be an issue for customers (like yourself) and obviously we want...

Who is your favourite sponsor and why is it Alphacool!? ;)

Hi Tek, In terms of loop order, it won't make a difference which radiator is first. In terms of fan orientation, then I would have the 240 as intake and 120 as exhaust as you mention. You can of course test others out, but usually, this is better.

Our products are compatible with most other brands, as long as they are using copper/nickel and not Aluminium. For the radiator and fans, they're fine if space is limited, if possible, I would go with 25mm fans though as usually they move more air. There isn't anything wrong with keeping it...

Hi @Hotslice I will forward this onto the R&D team so that they can have a look at it, but it is likely due to the last part of the question. Unfortunately, GPU manufactueres can change the GPUs without informing anyone. If we had 90YV0FD1-M0NM00 and then later they changed things and released...

Hi Clopyright, You could probably get away with the single 360 radiator if you have good fans run them at high speeds, but temps may be high. Adding a second radiator is usually a good idea as even if you don't see huge tempreture drops, you can reduce the speed of the fans and in turn...

Unfortunately, we had to remove the case compatability list as there were just too many cases and it was dependant on what hardware was used in the case, it got a little messy. Luckily, other forum members use the Eisbaer Extreme, so maybe they can offer some examples. with a little bit of case...

Yes, you can take the blocks apart to clean them. You can also flush fluid the oposite way which usually will dislodge the gunk. As far as I know, LRT Advanced is plasticisor free, but I can't be 100% as I haven't used Primochill in around 7 years! Green is usually a sign on copper reacting...

placisciser/plasticsizer is used in some tubing (particuarly PVC) to make it more maluable overtime, this can break down and then can flow throught he loop. It will usually get stuck in the fins of waterblocks - very similar to what you see here. There is a lot of information about this online...

Any dirt will always get stuck in the GPU and CPU blocks due to those being the points of most restriction. There is very little space between the fins, so naturally the dirt clogs there, usually at the inputs of each as it is stopped from reaching the output. There is no chance it can be...

We have this SLI connector, I am not 100% sure, but I believe it works with the 30-series cards. @Eddy might be able to confirm it for you :)

All 3 of those loops will work fine, but the 140 Radiator would be the coolest based on surface area. The loop order won't make a difference as long as the reservoir is before the pump (which is the case in all your pictures) X-Flow radiators have one port at the top, one at the bottom. so...